Here is a story by Branislav Kysucky, Junior Test Engineer at Multitude embarking on one of the greatest climbs in his life, conquering Mont Blanc. Branislav has been with the company since 2019 and was part of the Internship Training programme. This climb might not be possible in the coming years due to global warming, bringing about changes in rain and snowfall patterns and an increase in the frequency of extreme meteorological events, such as floods and avalanches, making it extremely dangerous for climbers.
Mont Blanc also known as the White Mountain is one of the most popular mountains in Europe. It is the highest peak in Western Europe and on the Alps. It was always my dream to climb this beautiful and iconic European mountain.
After couple of summits on High Tatras on Slovakia’s highest peaks, we agreed with my Slovakian Mountain Guide, Pavol from Horynadosah that I was now ready for this long overdue challenge and adventure. We chose the most popular route via Gouter, where we slept for a night.
Our expedition consisted of three independent groups and a total of nine of us, all experienced climbers. We were two climbers and a mountain guide in each group, all experienced climbers and nevertheless nervous and excited for what was coming.
25-30. July 2022
We arrived in Chamonix (France). We had a couple of days for acclimatisation before we departed for the Summit. We climbed glaciers in Mer De Glace and the next days were spent on Aiguille du Midi (3 842 m) and Mont Blanc de Tucal (4 248 m), which is little brother of the Mont Blanc. We also trained climbing rocks on Via Ferrata Evettes & Via Corda as it was highly important that we prepared our bodies for the upcoming high altitude and physical demand.
(Aiguille du Midi)
31. July 2022, SUMMIT DAY 1
(On the way to pass Gran Couloir)
We were very nervous before we are started our journey, in particular, because there was a huge obstacle called Grand Couloir. The Grand Couloir is a short passage on the Goûter Route at 3340 meters altitude. If you choose to cross it, you must do so very early in the morning before all the snow starts melting. You literally must run for your life! Due to global warming, rocks and stones fall continuously, and it was very risky. The French mountain guides are forbidden to lead this summer season through Grand Couloir.
(Grand Coulior)
But we made it. We took advantage of the fact that it cooled down for a few days and that helped us. We climbed from Regude du Nid d'Aigle through Refuge de Tete Rousse on Refuge de Gouter and we slept here till the morning. Sleeping was difficult. I was exhausted from the high altitude (3 815 m), and I didn't sleep very well that night.
Ascent to the highest peak of the Alps and all of Western Europe.
Video created by: Branislav Kysucký
01. August 2022, SUMMIT DAY 2
After three hours of sleep, Summit Day was here. was Summit Day here. I woke up at 1:30 am for a 2.30am departure. How does it all feel? Well… It’s pitch black and cold when you start. You scramble up a really steep cliff. You’re roped into your fellow climber and your guide.
You have to be on full alert, this is real climb, and it is a matter of life and death. I was honestly a little shocked how scary it looked but surprisingly, doing half of it in the dark actually helped.
The only thing you see is the light from your friend's led light ahead of you.
And you don't see the long and grinding climb that awaits you.
After 2 hours we finally arrived at Bivouac Vallot, we rested here for 10 minutes. I was able to stomach only one small cookie, we immediately continued our climb.
(Refuge Vallot - last hut before the summit of Mont Blanc)
As we got closer to the top, I felt weaker. By this point, we had been climbing for 4 hours. I was breathing hard and I started having heavy legs. But I was so motivated and determined that I would not give up at any cost.
The views from the Alps are honestly second-to-none, but I took very little time to soak that in as I ascended. My view centred around the 2 metres in front of me until we finally reached the Summit, all 4,810m of it. Success!
We were the first group at the top. My dream came true, and it was an indescribable feeling of joy.
I was happy that we made it. I didn't conquer the mountain, but I conquered myself and pushed my limits even further. It was very cold at the top, and we still had a long way back, so after a few minutes of rejoicing and celebrating, we had to descend quickly.
We had to overcome 3,600 high altitude meters in one day and again took the risk in crossing the Grand Couloir. From a distance, we saw how someone was hit by stones.
But we were again lucky and passed from there without any problems.
At 2 pm we were back in Chamonix, full of joy and pride from what we have achieved.
I will remember this moment for the rest of my life.
Dreaming big and always believing that nothing is impossible. That is something I believe in.
I'm already looking for my next challenge.
(Summit)
Three days after our successful ascent, an avalanche of huge stones fell through the Grand Couloir and to this day, the Refuge de Tete Rousse and Refuge de Gouter huts are closed until further notice.
I'm glad that we managed the climb, with a bit of luck. The glaciers are melting extremely fast due to global warming and the situation in Alps will only get worse.
Over the last century, global warming has caused all Alpine glaciers to recede. In 2006, the volume of water stored as ice was still almost 10% greater than that present as liquid, but the margin is continuing to narrow. The invasion of southern pathogens, bringing diseases against which the flora and fauna of the Alps have no defence, could also be a consequence of global warming.
